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  <title>Top Knot Professional Grooming: News/Tips</title>
  <link>http://topknotpg.zoomshare.com/2.shtml</link>
  <description>Top Knot Professional Grooming: News/Tips</description>
  <lastBuildDate>Thu, 25 Oct 2007 21:28:28 -0500</lastBuildDate>
  <item>
   <link>http://topknotpg.zoomshare.com/2.shtml/71054b22eafaf891cb688075788462b0_44615458.writeback</link>
   <title>Homemade Skunk Treatment</title>
   <pubDate>Tue, 09 May 2006 21:47:52 -0500</pubDate>
   <description>You're just about ready to go to bed and you let 
your dog out for one last pee before bedtime.  
You let your dog back in and you smell 
something.  Something that smells very bad.  
Something that smells like... SKUNK!  Your worst 
nightmare, your dog has been sprayed by a skunk.  
Your dog smells and your house smells and there 
are no grooming shops open at 10:00pm.  Now your 
stuck, you have to deal with the smell until 
tomorrow and hope that you can get the smell out 
of your carpet and furniture, not to mention 
yourself.  You wish there was something you could 
do to get rid of the smell now.  Well good news, 
there is.  Using products you may normally find 
around your home you can bath that skunk chasing 
K9 and get rid of the smell right away.
	First and foremost, never wet your dog 
down first before using this formula.  The 
chemicals in a skunks spray reacts with water and 
will spread making in almost impossible to get 
rid of all the smell until it wears away.  
Second, just to dissolve an old wives tale, 
tomato paste or sauce will not work unless it is 
allowed to full dry on your dog.  That can take, 
on a medium to longhaired dog 12 to 24 hours.  
I'm pretty sure you don't have the time to sit 
around and wait for your dog to dry with tomato 
paste covering him.  If your dog is white or 
blond colored, you will also end up with a pink 
dog instead that will take quite a while to fade.
	To make this skunk solution you will 
need:  1- bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide 3%, ¾ box 
of Baking soda, 1 cup of dish soap, (Dawn, 
Palmolive).  You will also need an empty dish 
detergent bottle to mix the ingredient together 
in, it will also make it easier to apply to your 
dog.  Mix all three ingredients together well. 
	Apply the mixture to your dog liberally.  
Be careful not to get the mixture into your dog's 
eyes or mouth.  Baking soda can be harmful if 
swallowed and peroxide can be dangerous to the 
eyes. Use a face cloth to apply the mixture to 
your dogs face.  If your dog is anything like 
mine, they probably got sprayed right in the 
face. Rub the mixture into your dog's skin and 
coat.  Make sure to completely saturate your dog 
in the mixture. Let the mixture sit on your dog 
for about 5 min.  Rinse thoroughly starting with 
the head and face.  Lift your dogs head to make 
sure the mixture runs away from the eyes and 
mouth. It is always easier if you have an extra 
set of hands.  Towel dry.
	This mixture has been proven to work if 
you follow the instructions. 
For more information about skunk treatments 
contact: thepetproject@zoomshare.com
</description>
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  <item>
   <link>http://topknotpg.zoomshare.com/2.shtml/a09c527a5ce0467ad1d3e3a14e031840_44483da8.writeback</link>
   <title>The Truth about Shaving your &quot;Naturally Coated&quot; Dog</title>
   <pubDate>Thu, 20 Apr 2006 21:04:24 -0500</pubDate>
   <description>Many clients have come into my shop at the 
beginning of the summer, asking to have their 
naturally coated dog shaved.  Naturally coated 
dogs are: Golden Retrievers, Collies, Shepard's 
etc.  These clients believe that shaving their 
dog will keep it cooler during the hot summer 
months.  This is not true.  
There are many reasons why a naturally coated dog 
should not be shaved.  One: it ruins the coat.  A 
naturally coated dog has two different types of 
hair.  The longer coarser hair is called the 
Guard hairs.  This hair sheds much less 
frequently.  The Guard hairs have a natural oil 
coating that protects the dog's skin from water.  
The Guard hairs are also deep rooted into mussels 
under the skins surface.  This allows the dog to 
raise the hair on its back when warning another 
dog or human that it is not happy and might show 
aggression.  The second type of hair is called 
the undercoat.  This is what sheds on your dog.  
The undercoat is usually much softer and finer 
than the guard hairs.  The undercoat acts as an 
insulator during the colder months of the year.  
The undercoat sheds and re-grows much faster than 
the Guard hairs.  If you shave your naturally 
coated dog the undercoat will grow much faster 
than the Guard hairs.  This causes a fuzzy 
barrier that the Guard hairs must try to 
penetrate.  This leads to increased matting of 
the coat.  Not only is matting ugly to look at, 
it is extremely uncomfortable for your dog 
because it pulls on the skin and traps moisture, 
which will cause any number of skin problems.
Reason Number Two: Your dog's coat works as 
insulation. Your dog's coat acts much in the same 
way as the insulation in your home.  It can keep 
your home warmer in the winter months by 
preventing the warm air from escaping and keeping 
the cool air out, and it can keep you home cooler 
in the summer months by keeping the cool air in 
and the hot air out.  Shaving your naturally 
coated dog removes a natural way your dog keeps 
cool in the hot weather.  Sunlight is a heat 
source.  Your dog needs its coat for a barrier 
between the sun and its skin.  This helps against 
sunburn and overheating.  If your dog has no coat 
the sun is in direct contact with your dogs 
skin.  In the same way that the insulation in 
your home has air pockets to trap the cool or 
warm air, so does your dog's coat. These air 
pockets trap cooler or warmer air, keeping your 
dog comfortable in all types of weather.  
However, if there is too much of a build up of 
undercoat your dog will not have enough air 
pockets to trap the cool air and ward off the hot 
air in the summer.  In the early spring it is 
always a good idea to remove the extra 
undercoat.  A good brushing with a proper brush 
and technique will reduce the shedding and make 
your dog much more comfortable in the hot months 
to come.  If you feel that you cannot handle such 
a task, contact a professional for tips or a 
grooming appointment.
Not shaving your naturally coated dog is much 
safer and healthier.

For more information on your pets coat or 
grooming tips contact Sarah @ Top Knot 
Professional Grooming, Ajax -- 905-683-0066 or 
email: topknotpg@zoomshare.com</description>
  </item>
  <item>
   <link>http://topknotpg.zoomshare.com/2.shtml/0ce0c6a074ee78c2a348b515949403d9_44483d50.writeback</link>
   <title>What is a Mat</title>
   <pubDate>Thu, 20 Apr 2006 21:02:56 -0500</pubDate>
   <description>To understand matting you must first understand 
the anatomy of your dog's coat.  Breeds such as 
Golden Retrievers, German Shepard's, Collies, and 
Labs etc. as well as some small breeds, such as 
terriers and Pomeranians have a double coat.  A 
double coat consists of two different types of 
hair.  The long coarser hair is called the Guard-
coat.  The finer usually softer and shorter hair 
is called the Undercoat.  The undercoat is what 
sheds on your dog.  The undercoat sheds and re-
grows constantly, while the Guard-coat almost 
never sheds.  
	The Guard-coat, under a microscope looks 
like a stem of a rose.  Protruding off of the 
guard hairs are little briers.  These briers and 
the combination of shedding undercoat, dander and 
dirt cause matting.  When the undercoat is 
released it has to make its way up through the 
guard hairs and off the dog.  When the guard coat 
is tangled with other guard hairs the undercoat 
can get stuck in amongst the guard hairs, 
trapping it.  Then if your dog gets dirty or skin 
particles get involved it becomes a mat.  The 
longer a tangle is left the worse the mat will 
become.  Sometimes a mat can almost 'appear over 
night'.  
	The guard hairs run deeper into the skin 
than the undercoat.  The guard hairs attach to 
muscles under the skins surface.  This allows the 
dog to raise the hair on the back of the neck and 
tail when being aggressive.  When a matt is 
formed it webs the guard hair together tightly.  
This not only pulls on the skin causing 
discomfort, but it pulls on the muscles as well.  
This can become quite painful for your pet.  
Wetting or bathing your dog when they have 
matting will only make the situation worse.  The 
matt will absorb the water making it denser and 
harder to dry.  This can lead to increased 
bacteria growth on your dog's skin and additional 
skin problems such as, hot spots and sores.   
	Removing bad matting can also cause skin 
irritation.  If your pet has bad matting, do not 
try to brush the mats out.  Some smaller mats may 
be able to be removed by brushing, however 
constant brushing in the same spot can scratch 
the skin and cause another problem all together.  
The best way to remove matting is to have a 
professional shave it off with electric 
clippers.  Depending on the severity of the 
matting this may also cause skin irritation, 
however it is minimal discomfort compared to 
brushing.
	The best way to avoid matting is to 
routinely brush your dog.  A wire slicker brush 
and a metal comb are the best tools.  Sometimes 
it may look as if you have brushed your dog, but 
unless you check with a metal comb you may have 
only brushed the top layer.  You must brush down 
to the skin where the undercoat begins.  With 
using a comb you can make sure you have gotten 
right down to the skin, thus removing the 
undercoat and any chance of a matt starting.  
	Many owners have said to me that a wire 
slicker brush looks too painful to use.  Trust 
me, it's not.  Any brush can be painful if not 
used properly.  One thing to remember is not to 
continually brush in the same spot for too long.  
Any prolonged brushing, or petting for that 
matter, can irritate the skin.
	Proper and routinely brushing your pet 
will reduce shedding and matting and make your 
pet happier and healthier.
By: Sarah Hill -- Owner Top Knot Professional 
Grooming - Ajax
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